Just when the Paris offering for spring 2010 was looking to be a comforting dish of classic pieces, the innovators (Alexander McQueen and Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton) tossed in a few curve balls. But no matter the statement – an alien’s delight or cool girl’s downtime – ten top messages formed the season:
Alexander McQueen
Military: Cargo pockets, epaulets, strict styling – the military message marched back in structured jackets and trenches, minimal shirts, easy trousers and flightsuits such as the one that popped up amidst McQueen’s quirky sea urchins.
Jean Paul Gaultier
Shoulder details: Shoulder pads continued to define the strongest silhouettes – some of the best jackets featured broad wide pads. Others cut out the padding but focused on the shoulder by leaving it bare or cutting around it. Jean Paul Gaultier cut out his shoulders to expose conical stitched pads underneath.
Dries Van Noten
African prints: Prints popped up in numerous collections, most with an African inspiration. Dries Van Noten mixed his prints, many actually sourced in Africa, with Asian patterns.
Celine
Shorts: Shorts are the new skirts. Every single designer showed a variation – ranging from soft and floaty at Valentino to lace trimmed at Christian Dior to minimal leather at Celine to cycling shorts layered under minis skirts at Louis Vuitton.
Valentino
Lingerie: Corsets, bras, peignoirs – pretty underthings either appliquéd or trimmed with lace were inspired by Christian Dior’s haute couture show in July. Gaultier’s G-Spot collection was based on his now famous conical bra designed for Madonna. Valentino’s suits were layers of sheers with lace.
Karl Lagerfeld
Jumpsuits: All-in-ones are not the easiest piece to wear but most designers featured either short rompers or ankle-length jumpsuits. Lanvin showed voluminous jumpsuits trimmed with fringed beads while Karl Lagerfeld’s cropped rompers were fresh in crisp white cotton.
Givenchy
The LWD: While the LBD (little black dress) is now a 24/7 staple, the little white dress is the freshest choice for spring. Sophia Kokosalaki’s were draped like mini togas while Givenchy’s were ruffled, embroidered and surprisingly sophisticated.
Valentino
Nude tones: Black and white, with a dash of navy here and there, is a given but the newest hues were variations of nudes – blush tones to pale creams – that gave a skin tone look. Celine’s bodysuits were all nude while Valentino’s parade of red carpet dresses – nary a classic Valentino red in sight – were all in whispery soft shades.
Louis Vuitton
The new shoe: While many designers stuck to their favourite catwalk clunkers – Givenchy showed 6” wedge platforms and Alexander McQueen’s showed monstrous hoof boots – the tide has turned towards lower heels and finer styling, and even flat sandals. Louis Vuitton had the best, and wackiest, selection ranging from moccasins and penny loafers with one-inch heels and fur tassels to lime green UGG-inspired boots.
Lanvin
Ruffles: Not a fan of frills? You might want to take another look as ruffles of all flows and sizes trimmed dresses, jackets and gowns. The stiff classic Lanvin ruffle inspired others on jacket lapels at Stella McCartney and rows of bunched frills at Giambatistta Valli and Alexander McQueen.
-Lisa Tant, Editor-in-Chief
Runway photos: Anthea Simms
Oct
07
Hermes, Sp ‘10
Another long trek out to a warehouse in the Paris burbs for the Hermes show. I can smell the fresh grass the minute I step in – it covers the catwalk and extends up through the bleacher style seating. I’m guessing it’s meant to mimic a soccer pitch? Jean Paul Gaultier loves his gimmicks so I’m curious how this will translate.
And it’s all about tennis! As two models gamely bat a ball back and forth, a parade of luxe tennis dresses, easy polos and long jersey skirts and cardigans come down the runway. Never mind the clothes, it’s the accessories that grab my eye – oversized Birkins to carry raquets, leather ball holders and chic clutches, plus spectactor heels and wide criss-cross leather belts. Very polished and sophisticated from start to finish.
And that’s it for another Fashion Week in Paris. I’ll follow up with some more insider views – visits to the Balenciaga and Lanvin showrooms – in my weekly blog. We’ll be back here in March for the fall collections. Au revoir.
-Lisa Tant, Editor-in-Chief
Runway photos: Anthea Simms
Oct
07
RM By Roland Mouret Sp ‘10
Last big day of shows and I’m stuck on the Metro! We jerk along – stopping and starting the entire way. The train is packed and there’s no air circulating so the scents of the morning are overwhelming.
When I finally get to Trocadero (the Eiffel Tower), I’m gasping for fresh air but it’s just as steamy outside. I take my place next to Lewis from Holt Renfrew and we wait for the RM by Roland Mouret show to start. Mouret is known for his fitted ‘Galaxy’ dress popularized by Hollywood’s elite including Victoria Beckham whom Mouret helped launch her now celebrated dress collection. You can see his sensibility in every curved seam of her tailored collection.
Figure- flattering sexy dresses, loose knee-length trousers and slinky jumpsuits walk the neon striped runway. I’m watching Christian Louboutin inspect the caged booties that he made for the show. I love a navy outfit on Karlie Kloss – a gorgeous line made for confident women (and impossibly tall lean teens like KK).
Now I’m off to visit Calla Haynes, a young Canadian designer, at her studio in the Marais. Calla has spent the past seven years working alongside Olivier Theyskens, first at Rochas and then Nina Ricci. Now she’s launched her own label, Calla, that highlights her painterly touch with prints. Buyers are already visiting her petite salon in Paris so I hope to see her line available in Canada soon.
Louis Vuitton Sp ‘10
After lunch, I’ll be back with news from Louis Vuitton, one of the season’s most hotly anticipated collections. You can watch the show on Facebook later today.
Leighton Meester at Louis Vuitton
Was leisurely enjoying a capuccino when I remembered that Marc Jacobs is now a punctual performer. (Most shows start 30 to 45 minutes late. Jacobs has made us wait two hours in the past so now he makes a point to be early or exactly on time.) I raced over to the Louvre and by the time Jeanne Beker and I sat down, the lights dropped and the music blared. And what a show!!! You never know what Marc Jacobs is going to do (luxe grunge to French coquettes) and this season, he let it rip with an adorably goofy nouveau grunge collection that highlighted Kewpie dolls with pert bows in their bouncing afros. Metallic brocade bike shorts, fringed denim suits, string-like dresses and printed cotton rompers – little girl clothes that will confound LV’s society ladies. The real news was the 80s inspired accessories – kitschy but clever. One inch heels on clogs and penny loafers with curly lamb fur tassels, lime green UGG boots, moccasins all with one inch heels. Schoolgirl bags – satchels, duffels and backpacks – were slung over shoulders – and fanny packs had long fur tails swinging from the sides. Pastels softened the streetwise feel. The overall mood? Young, fun, silly, girly – clothes for girls who just want to have fun. I’m trying to explain this in my fractured French to two women who missed the show. They keep raising their eyebrows and asking me to elaborate. I don’t think they believe my description. I don’t really believe what I’ve just seen either – but it sure was exuberant!
Canadian model Kate Somers with her mom
After the show, I see Canadian model (and FLARE favourite) Kate Somers with her mother. Kate loved walking in the show and her Mum says she’s had the time of her life chaperoning her lookalike daughter for the past two years.
I need a nap after this! Back later with news from Hermes.
Alexander McQueen, Sp ‘10
Mind blowing – tonight’s Alexander McQueen show was quite simply one of the most awesome spectacles I’ve ever seen. Two giant cameras – each as big as a VW Golf – were perched on either side of the runway. A massive screen at the entrance projected a film featuring model Raquel Zimmerman (I believe) covered in writhing snakes. And then it started …
McQueen’s inspiration may have been Plato’s Atlantis (??) but it looked to me like a Star Wars bar scene packed with ultra-glam terrifying aliens on a Saturday night. Opposites attracted as wild nature prints (reptiles and insects) shaped molded mini dresses marked by stacks of ruffles, fluted curves and peaked shoulders. Silhouettes were right on the mark and McQueen’s flight suit was one of the season’s best nods at the growing military trend. The details were an alien’s interpretation of the wild – ram’s horns as braided hair pieces, prosthetics that defined facial bones, and massive hoof boots in reptile leathers and prints. The platforms looked to be 6” with an 8” heel – shocking that no model fell and snapped a leg. But these girls – including Canadians Alannah Zimmer, Amanda Laine, Kate Somers and Tara Gill – stalked with a feline confidence. The cameras hunted them like prey – swooping down and running along side to show the rest of the world McQueen’s dystopic view of the future. (Margaret Atwood should see this!) the show was streamed live worldwide. I left breathless. This kind of craftsmanship and showmanship is fashion at its peak – a fantastic way to end the night.
-Lisa Tant, Editor-in-Chief
Runway photos: Anthea Simms
Lanvin’s covetable extras up close
After Chanel, I’m over to the Musee de l’Homme where Lanvin is showing their collection to buyers and press. I snap lots of shots that I’ll post in my next weekly blog. It was a superb collection that’s even more impressive up close.
Chloé Sp ‘10
The B52’s music is blaring from the Chloé tent – fun but odd! Formerly designed by Karl Lagerfeld, Stella McCartney & Phoebe Philo (not at the same time of course!), this house caters to the romantic traveler – a laid-back sexy modern girl. Think of Chloe Sevigny or model Anya Rubik who are both faces of the fragrance campaign. Anya is here (as is actress Rose Byrne) this afternoon – in a steamroom like tent.
In her third season with the label, Hannah McGibbon continues her ‘glamping’ spirit – luxe weekend type minimalism that really only looks great on dewy model types. Can’t imagine most women pulling off her plain button-down shirts paired with stirrup pants and satin-edged blanket style ponchos. A finale of plisse nude-tone dresses are pretty and her shoes – buckled canvas cuffed heels and wide strapped leather flats – are always winners. The minimalism echoes her former boss Phoebe Philo’s debut at Celine. Yet Celine feels more sophisticated. Chloé is for her younger rebel sister – a perfect fashionable pair in fact!
Valentino, Sp ‘10
It’s gloriously sunny now so I decide to relax in the Tuileries for half an hour before a long Metro trip out of Chevaleret for Valentino. This will be the first spring collection for the two former accessory designers – Maria Grazia Chiuri & Pier Paolo Picciolo – and Valentino has proven to be a hard act to follow.
The duo excel at gorgeously sumptuous red carpet cocktail frocks. The parade of bowed, ruffled and / or embellished dresses in whispery soft blush hues is stunning – in addition to frilled leathers. Yet Valentino was known for dressing his ladies around the clock – not just for evening. Where are the day dresses? Impeccable suits? Prices here are prohibitively expensive so it’s hard to imagine how this house will adapt to challenging times – unless all of the ‘real’ clothes are back at the showroom.
I grab a bite to eat with Anthea Simms, FLARE’s catwalk photographer. We were the petite Brit’s first client 25 years ago – and still going strong.
The massive cameras that will be filming Alexander McQueen’s show
Crowds are gathering outside the sports stadium at Bercy. McQueen’s show will be streamed live tonight so you can watch it with me. Stay tuned for more!
-Lisa Tant, Editor-in-Chief
Runway photos: Anthea Simms
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