After a few ups and downs, the collections that stalked the runways in Toronto last week provided us with some very wearable trends. More often than not they’re in line with the style ideas walking off the international catwalks, so we have every reason to choose Canadian this spring.
From left: Jason Meyers, Pink Tartan, Romona Keveza – Spring ‘10
1. OTT Ruffles
A dramatic flourish is easily accomplished with any one of the statement ruffles we witnessed this season – on feminine skirts, sculpted dresses and sheer blouses.
From left: Lucian Matis, Pink Tartan, Sears – Spring ‘10
2. Shoulder Focus
Padded and bold, exposed and sexy, it was all about the shoulder and played a role in almost every kind of top and dress.
From left: Brandon Dwyer, Greta Constantine, David Dixon – Spring ‘10
3. LWD
It was big everywhere this season, and some of Toronto’s finest put the Little White Dress on the map with stunning strapless numbers.
From left: Joe Fresh, NADA, Brandon Dwyer – Spring ‘10
4. Sweet Nothings
Lingerie played an underlying role with exposed slips and sexy lace, and a starring role with bustiers and underwear as outerwear.
From left: Evan Biddell, Brandon Dwyer, Travis Taddeo – Spring ‘10
5. Sport Billy
We’ll be ready for action in modern, athletic-inspired silhouettes and active fabrics.
From left: Greta Constantine, NADA, Pink Tartan – Spring ‘10
6. Leather Love
Our love affair with the biker look began for fall, but it shows no sign of slowing for the warmer months. It’ll just be a little softer and a lot more lightweight.
From left: David Dixon, Evan Biddell, Aime – Spring ‘10
7. Solid Brights
Colour cast a show-stopping glow on the runways in shades of azure, lemon, orange and chartreuse in bold solid dresses.
From left: Reva Mivasagar, Greta Constantine, Lucian Matis – Spring ‘10
8. Parachute Dresses
Floor-skimming dresses that revealed gorgeous gams in the front and cascaded to the floor in the back were in full force showing Olivier Theyskens’ Nina Ricci influence.
From left: Paul Hardy, Joe Fresh, David Dixon – Spring ‘10
9. Tulle Rosettes
Another international influence – Giambattista Valli – was revealed in soft tufts of tulle in rosette appliqués.
From left: Joe Fresh, Lucian Matis (and at right) – Spring ‘10
10. Warm Vs. Cool
The race for the winning neutral of the week ended in a tie between icy grey and chic nudes.
Photos: George Pimentel
Oct
24
TGIF. Thank goodness for fashion? Friday? Finales? All of the above. The last day of fashion week is here and I’m exhausted. But the amount of sugar being banded around the tents today worked wonders! I even managed to pick out some pieces I’m putting on my wishlist.
Brandon Dwyer Spring ‘10
Brandon Dwyer was up first with his debut at the tents and his sophomore collection. I took in his first show last season and was definitely intrigued by the skilled handiwork and chic silhouettes, so I was hoping this to be a giant leap in the right direction. But, maybe baby steps are more realistic. The collection felt disconnected and jumped around to flowing chiffon beach numbers to stiff corseting and metallic prom frocks, varsity stripes on jersey to embellishment and ruching. Stand out pieces included a LWD with sheer overlay and nude sheer and slouchy drawstring dress with turquoise stripes (Favourite piece #1).
Jesica Biffi Spring ‘10
Next up, another Project Runway alumn took to the runway. Jessica Biffi showed a ghetto fabulous vibe complete with day-glo, graffiti and, oddly enough, a black light. There was a lot going on in this collection – sequins, box pleats, graffiti, ombre animal print, sheer jersey, irridescent pinks and lime. Questionable cuts included jackets that were cut away at the bust and tight down the torso, which lent an odd focus to bouncing assets. Altogether it was a bit of a discount rave on Mars. Redeeming piece? The lean gold trousers with paneled pleats on the hips (Favourite piece #2).
Lucian Matis Spring ‘10
Now for some serious high fashion. Lucian Matis hit the runway with an ultra glam and innovative collection. Of course, the very first thing to hit the runway was a clown dress worn by Addison Gill and played to a circus theme. Odd start, but it set the scene for a deconstructed circus of types with mirrored embellishment, ribbon bondage headgear, pastel chiffon and tons of sparkle. I loved all the draped jersey in muted tones of putty and dove grey, the feathered sequin dress with one sleeve and all the layered skirts. Putting the embellishment and sequin layers underneath the solids was a new take and felt completely fresh – hard to do around these parts. Stand outs included a goddess gown with embellished straps (Favourite piece #3) and the draped silver sequined asymmetric number and lavender underlay (Favourite piece #4). Just gorgeous.
Pat McDonagh Spring ‘10
The next show really can’t be classified as a collection, can it? Pat McDonagh started with a video commercial for Baskin Robbins new skinny ice cream and confused the heck out of us. The clothes that followed were just as perplexing and all based around desserts. The feathered sequin gown with cowl back in sea blue was the one thing that stood out in my mind, but the other cake and cotton candy inspired confections fell flat. Not the sugar high we were looking for at this time at night.
Dare To Wear Spring ‘10
But to end the night with a bang, the Dare to Wear Love show stepped up. Top Canadian designers were recruited by Hoax Couture to bring awareness to the Stephen Lewis Foundation that does amazing things fighting AIDS in Africa. Each label was given 6 yards of African fabric and handed the task of creating a look worthy of these gorgeous textiles. And it did not disappoint. My absolute favourite look was handed out by Evan Biddell and opened the show with a bold structured dress with swooped paneling and blocks of volume on the shoulder (Favourite piece $5), but I also swooned over dresses by Greta Constantine, Lida Baday and Linda Lundstrom. I was impressed at how some of the designers made wearable looks that at times outdid their main lines! No cause better for them to do their absolute best. I won’t say too much about this because I want to urge you to check out the Stephen Lewis Foundation website to learn more – about the collection and the inspiring work his foundation does. www.stephenlewisfoundation.org
What a way to end the week. A rewarding box of cookies from one show awaits, so that’s all for now. But stay tuned for our trend wrap up.
— E.K.
Photos by George Pimentel
Find out what FLARE’s Fashion Director, Elizabeth Cabral, wears to work and to LG Fashion Week in Toronto
Day 1: Monday, October 19
The first day of Fashion Week calls for a statement-making ensemble. I’ve decided on a bold shouldered top from Zara, super-skinny legging pants from BCBG and exaggerated pony-skin wedges from BCBG. I love these shoes – everyone thinks they’re high-end designer and being so tall gives me the confidence I need to pull off those shoulder pads. I’ve also been using my old (and very worn-in Balenciaga lariat bag. I’m just feeling it again.)
Day 2: Tuesday, October 20
My BCBG bandage skirt is body-con sexy so I’ve paired it with a cozy knit from Wilfred and a designer tee from Urban Outfitters. My outfit wouldn’t be complete without skyscrapper heels – these booties are from Marni. A leopard print scarf from Le Chateau completes my look.
Day 3: Wednesday, October 21
This jacket is an oldie but goodie piece from my wardrobe – it’s from former Canadian label Yso. I’ve had it for about 7 years now but it never looks dated and the goth-rock sleeves and shoulders are so right now! A wardrobe staple designer tee from Holt’s and silk harem pants from Zara keep the look louche. And of course, my killer wedges from BCBG.
Day 4: Thursday, October 22
I’ve decided to do an evening for day look. These YSL tuxedo pants are a recent purchase and I swear I’ll wear them until I’m 70. My old leather jacket needed an update so I’ve layered it with a furry vest from Zara ( I love it so much I bought it in black too!). The shoes are vintage and I’ve had those for 8 years now, tonight’s the first time I’ve worn them in ages. Shopping in the back of your closet is even more rewarding than buying new.
Day 5: Friday, October 23
After a long week I opted to go luxe grunge. That means combining comfy basics like a plaid shirt and cargo topper from the Gap with high fashion pieces like this sequined vest straight off Pink Tartan’s runway and slick leather leggings. A little bling goes a long way. Oh, can’t forget about the footwear – these studded and fringed Prada heels are the perfect touch. —E.C.
Photos: George Pimentel (Days 1, 2 and 4)
Oct
23
Even for those of us who steer clear of anything too girly on a daily basis, today’s shows provided reason after reason to embrace our femininity. Every runway mastered that fresh, pretty feeling that is oh so spring. And honestly just left me feeling upbeat and excited to shop next season. What more can you ask for? Here’s my Top 5 favourites.
Aime Spring ‘10
1) Best Vacation Wardrobe: Aime
Perfect for that jaunt to the Mediterranean, the young Toronto label put forth eco-friendly, sophisticated clothes in bright vintage florals and pops of azure and marigold. Each piece had a silky soft look with draped pencil skirts, loose wrap dresses, muted gold shorts and colour-wash tees. Loved the rope belts and cute flower headbands.
Nada Spring ‘10
2) Best Argument for Black Lace in Summer: NADA
Dolce & Gabbana did a pirate Victoriana vibe for spring on their runway in Milan with tons of lace and feminine silhouettes, so it was fun to see it played out on a Toronto catwalk too. But NADA’s take was a bit more English estate than arr matey. Models wore tall bouffants and lots of black lace that at times looked a bit ’80s, but the overall effect with soft lavender, powder blue and a watercolour print felt fresh. Loved the leather and lace jacket, dolman sleeve shirt dress and sexy satin jumpsuit. Lace tops worked well with all of it. However, it still didn’t convince me that lace tights were a good idea in any season.
Rudsak Spring ‘10
3) Best Use of Lightweight Leather: Rudsak
Okay, so it’s no surprise that a leather goods label mastered the fabric for spring, but with colours such as dove grey, cherry red and light gold wash it looked great in military-inspired shapes…Or so I’m told…
Pamela Anderson with Ritchie Rich were in town to launch their new line A*MUSE
I missed the show due to the fact that I was busy chatting with Richie Rich and Pamela Anderson (who was sweet and sparkly – stay tuned for that interview!) who were in town to launch their new organic and animal friendly line A*MUSE with a wild catwalk event at This Is London, so my colleague Fiona took notes. Her favourite pieces? Brushed suede safari jackets, slim-cut long vests and two-tier trapeze dress with drawstrings.
Evan Biddell Spring ‘10
4) Most Surprising Softness: Evan Biddell
Fiona also took in this show – check out her report here. But the consensus was that this softer, more feminine outing was a welcome change to his apocalyptic approach.
5) Best Reason to Go Formal: Romona Keveza
Glamour with a capital G. I loved the mastered execution of red carpet stunners and breathtaking bridal gowns from this Canadian designer who usually only shows in New York. A standing ovation ought to bring her back to these tents again. Standout pieces included a navy one-shoulder tulle cocktail frock, chartreuse silk gown with flowing shoulder ribbons, and unique blush, soft mint and ice blue wedding dresses with dramatic volume. And once they hit play on a Celine Dion and Josh Grobin track, I was already swooning for the feathered tulle and Vionnet draping. Forget Vera and Monique. Don Canadian for your wedding.
- E.K.
Photos: George Pimentel
Oct
23
Evan Biddell Spring ‘10
A playfully low-fi animated short that preceded the show had me wondering if the collection would look just as zany, but the lightweight, flowing and trapeze-cut opening exits quickly zapped that thought. Angular paneling and curved seams in a mainly neutral palette with hits of coral and indigo were something of a Star Wars throwback. There were pieces that earned a second look; twisting jersey that draped from structured collars or banded bodices created the illusion of a maxi dress but actually tapered into a harem pant. Stellar accessories by Rita Tessolin finessed every look – some of which seamlessly incorporated LG cell phones into cuffs and clutches. —Fiona Green
Photos: George Pimentel
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