Nov
16
Look for my interview with Nicholas Ghesquiere, pictured above at the Spring/Summer ‘10 Balenciaga show, in the April issue of FLARE.
Karl Lagerfeld inspected my L.A.M.B. by Gwen Stefani trench. (He approved.) Jean Paul Gaultier is a little more reserved than one might expect. (This is a man who caps off his shows by literally running down the runway.) Oscar de la Renta charmed me with his warmth and elegance. Max Azria answered my questions with Twitter-length responses. (Thankfully his wife Luba is chatty.) And one American designer (who shall go unnamed) was so dismissive and thoroughly bored when promoting her fragrance that I wanted to spritz in her face to get some kind of reaction.
I was thinking about all of these experiences last week when I had the opportunity to speak to one of my most revered designers – Nicholas Ghesquiere, the creative director at Balenciaga in Paris. I was in New York for the launch of his first fragrance for the house.
Nicholas rarely gives interviews. I’ve been asking for one for FLARE for years. He was everything I hoped he’d be – funny, charming, intelligent and sincere. Oh and sexy, too. My full interview will run in the April issue of FLARE.
Nicholas told me he enjoyed my questions. They weren’t the usual basics. The key to a great interview is research. It seems so obvious but I’ve witnessed some cringe-worthy interviews. Many celebrity interviews are in groups with a handful of editors from around the world. Many editors arrive with gifts and spend half of their allotted time gushing over the subject’s celebrity and how much that person means to them personally. I’m surprised by how few of them know much more about that person beyond their latest movie or fragrance. It’s like they got all of their information from US Weekly.
It’s so easy to research a high profile figure – an hour online will provide a wealth of information. It took me a while to break the ice with Narcisco Rodriguez. (I found out later that he was in the middle of negotiations to sell his company.) After asking him a few broad questions about his design sensibility, I asked him if his mother worked for him. I had dug up a little known fact that his mother used to make his shirts for party nights out. He let out a surprised guffaw and then opened up.
I got the same response from Nicholas Ghesquiere with a few of my questions. I can’t wait to start working on that feature.
I’ll be back again next week. In the meantime, you can follow me on Twitter at www.twitter.com/lisatant
Photo: Anthea Simms
Between rushing from show to show in Paris, I like to pop by the designer’s studios for a closer look at their collection. This past season, I got up close and personal with Balenciaga, Chanel and Lanvin a few days after their shows. I learned to sew as a child, so I’m fascinated by construction – there’s nothing I love more than turning a piece inside out and inspecting the seams, the details and the fabric manipulation.
Photos from inside the Balenciaga showroom
First up was the Balenciaga showroom on the rue Cassette. While buyers were writing up orders, I went through the racks lining the sun-filled studio. Nicholas Ghesquiere’s designs are far more complicated than they look at first glance. I thought his jeans were made from denim but instead, they’re shaped from vegetable-dyed leather—same goes for the runway’s standout hooded vests. The leather has been brushed or knitted for texture and a fleece backed neoprene serves as the liner. This accordion pleated leather skirt (far left) is actually strips of leather that are then tacked in place. Brilliant.
Inside Lanvin’s temporary showroom at the Musee de l’Homme
After the Lanvin show, I headed over to the Musee de l’Homme where Alber Elbaz’s marketing team have set up a temporary showroom for visiting buyers. Lanvin looks effortless on the runway but up close, his dresses, for example, feature an inner corset or light boning to make the fabric drape in the right way. I was astonished by one red dress that I assumed was silk but was a buttery-soft leather. Alber’s complex necklaces were a highlight of the show. I’m terrified of snakes but his serpent necklace (far right) is one accessory I’d happily wrap around my neck.
A closer look at Chanel’s Spring ‘10 collection
The day after the Chanel show, I went to the studio on rue Cambon. The blockbuster Chanel collection was even more amazing up close. Karl Lagerfeld played with a country theme and took the details right down to the buttons. I loved the classic Chanel jacket with the gold wheat sheaf detailing (right) and another with a jute-like texture (left). As always, Chanel’s accessories were playful – from his leather workman’s apron to a watering can handbag. The show’s signature handbags were baskets decorated with straw flowers (center) – not a look I expect to see off the runway but stunning nonetheless.
I’ll be back again next week. In the meantime, you can follow me on Twitter at www.twitter.com/lisatant
YOU SHOULD SEE: Our coverage Spring ’10 collections…
Oct
07
Hermes, Sp ‘10
Another long trek out to a warehouse in the Paris burbs for the Hermes show. I can smell the fresh grass the minute I step in – it covers the catwalk and extends up through the bleacher style seating. I’m guessing it’s meant to mimic a soccer pitch? Jean Paul Gaultier loves his gimmicks so I’m curious how this will translate.
And it’s all about tennis! As two models gamely bat a ball back and forth, a parade of luxe tennis dresses, easy polos and long jersey skirts and cardigans come down the runway. Never mind the clothes, it’s the accessories that grab my eye – oversized Birkins to carry raquets, leather ball holders and chic clutches, plus spectactor heels and wide criss-cross leather belts. Very polished and sophisticated from start to finish.
And that’s it for another Fashion Week in Paris. I’ll follow up with some more insider views – visits to the Balenciaga and Lanvin showrooms – in my weekly blog. We’ll be back here in March for the fall collections. Au revoir.
-Lisa Tant, Editor-in-Chief
Runway photos: Anthea Simms
Celine, Sp ‘10
Phoebe Philo makes her spring season debut at Celine, a house that has struggled for visibility since Michael Kors left years ago. Philo, formerly Stella McCartney’s right-hand at Chloé (and later designer), has taken a break from helming a major label to have children. Celine is hoping her elusive ‘it’ girl factor will jump-start the collection which had become little more than a vehicle to promote accessories.
An inspiration book at my place shows page upon pages of naked womens bodies and horses?? A bit of a stretch but that translates into this beautifully simple collection marked by subtle military influences (trenches, epaulets), leather cropped tops and shorts, and nude toned bodysuits and dresses. Hair is caught up in top knots and makeup is minimal. It’s not showy but feels cool and effortless – exactly why the house brought Philo on board. Her debut, unlike Lohan’s the day before, is met with applause. Looks like Celine is back on track.
Balenciaga, Sp ‘10
I race over to see Nicholas Ghesquiere’s collection for Balenciaga up close. As usual, it’s a marvel of technology, material innovations and couture workmanship – and I’ll be writing about it (and show photos) in an upcoming blog. Stay tuned!
Yves Saint Laurent, Sp ‘10
It’s hot and sticky so head back to the hotel to freshen up before Yves Saint Laurent’s show tonight.
As I arrive at the Palais de Tokyo, the first show is streaming out. Prince jets down the stairs with a statuesque brunette in tow. Katy Perry is there too – she gets ambushed by paparazzi as she tries to leave. They simply move down the sidewalk on top of her like a massive crab. Must be terrifying!
I love Stefano Pilati’s update on YSL – menswear inspired with a hard sexy edge. There’s not much of that here tonight in a collection that swings between sleek / slim and frilly / fussy. I’m shocked by a floor sweeping white cotton skirt festooned with big strawberry appliques – looks like a craft kitchen gone mad. Fussy ruffles, multi-bows and some Pepto brights, plus sloppy unfinsihed edges, push the better pieces – leathers and high-waisted skirts – to the side. Disappointing!
I chat with Canadian model Kelsey on the subway. She still has the zig zag hair elastics enmeshed in her hair and a row of short-cut false lashes on her lower lashline. After four weeks of shows in four cities, she smiles wearily as she tells me that “she’s over Fashion Week”. I wish her a great Thanksgiving in her Vancouver hometown.
It’s been a long hot day so I’m back to the hotel for a good night’s sleep – but hoping visions of strawberries (what was he thinking?!?) won’t be dancing in my head.
-Lisa Tant, Editor-in-Chief
Runway photos: Anthea Simms
YOU SHOULD SEE: What Lisa thinks it takes to make it as a model…
Oct
02
Nina Ricci, Sp ‘10, Esteban Cortazar and Lindsay Lohan
Last night’s dinner at L’Avenue on the Avenue Montaigne was a who’s who of industry heavy-hitters. After the Nina Ricci show, they all trooped in for dinner – Bruno Frisoni (Roger Vivier designer) dined with Style.com’s Candy Pratts Price while Matteo Marzotto (former owner of Valentino and Naomi Campbell’s ex) sat with Consuelo Castiglione from Marni. I also spotted Esteban Cortazar who lost his Emanuel Ungaro gig to none other than Lindsay Lohan – yup, a brainless Hollywood train wreck has been stunt-cast as a designer in what the company admits is a publicity grab. Shameful.
Vionnet, Spring 2010
The next morning I’m up early to check out the reinvention of Vionnet. Famous in the 30s, Madeleine Vionnet was known for her bias cut draping. There’s hardly anyone here – fashion people rarely venture go out before noon unless it’s to see Balenciaga. This collection reminds me of Balenciaga’s fall line with its French draping, colour use and vivid colour (purple primarily) combined with shine. Jewelled brooches fasten belts, ruffles outline necklines, and colour blocks paired with patterned crepe de chine are the main statements – lovely but hardly revolutionary and not enough of a story to revive the label in such a crowded and recession-challenged marketplace.
Balenciaga, Spring 2010
Next it’s over the the Louvre and the steamy underground theatre to see Issey Miyake. The collection is called NEWS MIX – a mix of North, East, West and South influences: patterns, imagery and motifs. The show time is in 10 mins but only the photographers are here patiently waiting in the pit. Plastic covers the floor and someone is vacuuming. If looks could kill, the guy across from me would be dead. I met the German editor at Gareth Pugh’s show and he was shocked (seriously) to hear that “Can-eh-deea” has fashion magazines. Twit.
-Lisa Tant, Editor-in-Chief
Photos: Anthea Simms (except Vionnet)
